You can connect all negative terminals of the strips together, and all the positive terminals together using many short wires.I made a little schematic to show you the different options to connect your strips together. So they will be in parallel, no matter how you solder the strips together. It doesn't matter, if you attach them in parallel or in series, because the LED chips are already soldered in parallel to the strip. We now need to attach our LED strips together. Note: If you can, please don't buy the cheapest LED strips that you can find, because they tend to have a low CRI value, and so give weird colorations to clear objects. LED strips can be purchased for cheap on various sites like Amazon, Ebay, Banggood, RadioShack, etc. They all have different beam angles, but it's negotiable when making a LED panel. The LED strips are also classified depending of the size of the LEDs used on the strip. If, however, I need to get a more tungsten light, a cheap filter in front of the panel will resolve the problem :D
The color grading will be then made in Photoshop. The panel will be used to light up the scene, (while keeping the colours as neutral as possible). In my case, I decided to use the pure white LED strips, because I want to leave the color of the objects as close as possible to the 'original'. If needed, a cheap gel filter can be added to change the color temperature. They imitate normal sunlight very well, and can be used in basically any setup. If you want to have a great all-in-one panel, I suggest you to use the medium neutral white strips. The light that they emit has of course the coloration that the name refers to. Nowadays, there are three main categories of LED strips you can buy: the neutral white, the warm white and the pure white strips (also called bright white). Optinal: a thin piece of plexiglass, to protect the LED's Here are the materials that you'll need for the build:ġx Roll of white LED strips (Usually, there's 5 meters of LED strips in there, but we'll be using only a half of it)ġx Li-Ion charger module (look for the mark2, that has also V in and out ports on the PCB)ġx DC jack input (I used two of these, I'll explain why later)ġx DC-DC step up buck converter (I planned to use a ICSA004A module, but because I managed to destroy three of these while making the cirquit, I used a XL6009 in the final build)Ģx Li-Ion cells - at least 2 000 mAh (a salvaged mines from a old laptop battery)ġx 1/4'' standard female camera screw mount (I salvaged mine from a old camera) So without any further to do, let's get started! Oh, almost forgot, the panel is also 100% dustproof :D Thanks to the 1/4'' mounting hole, the panel can be mounted on any tripod, dolly, ball head, magic arm, etc. The battery of my panel lasts for about 5 hours, but the capacity can be customised by changing the number of Li-ion cells in the panel.
The panel weights about 180 grams (0.6 pounds) ,so it's a perfect piece of equipment to take with you when travelling. The brightness of the LEDs is also dimmable, when used in battery-mode.
There's also a toggle switch, that allows to switch to main power when needed. Nowadays, there are small LED panels available on the market for around 50 bucks, but I'll show you, how I made mine for only a tenth of the price! The panel is Li-ion battery powered, rechargeable with a standard micro USB charger and VERY bright.
SMALL LED PANEL PROFESSIONAL
There's always more lights than needed in a professional photo studio, because you never know, which lighting setup you'll need (+you don't need to run to the photo store, when a light breaks ^_^).Īlso, when travelling, it's annoying to carry a large LED panel with you. Cable included.When it comes to photography, lighting is one of the factors that can't be neglected. SGB 36.301B have been designed to be powered and controlled from the SuperGreenController.
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